Button-hole sewing-machine



(ModeL) 6 Sheets-Sheet I.

J. REEGE.

BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 349,359. Patented Sept. 21, 1886.

0% I Jkn J'Zaeo/e N. PETERS. Punk) Lvlhounphw. \Vzshmgmn 01c,

6 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(ModeL) J. REECE.

BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 349,359. Patened Sept. 21, 1886.

Wit E55 El 5.

:1. PETERS. Phqw 6 Sheefs-Sheet 3.

(ModeL) J" REEGE.

BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 349,359. Patented Sept. 21, 1886.

ESEEE/" Wii u. PETERS Phukoixlhngmpher. Washmghm. D. c.

6 sheets sh eet 4.

J. REEOE.

BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.-

(Model.)

No. 349,359. Patented Sept. 21, 1886.

N. PETERS. PhOhrLIlhog 6 Sheets-Sheet 6.

(Model.)

J. REEOE.

BUTTON HOLE SEWING MAUEINE. No. 349,859.

Patented Sept. 21, 1886.

iiivtran STATES PATENT Orrica.

BUTTON-HOLE SEWING-MACHINE.

Application filed May 19,1564.

'Io CLZZ whom it 72mg concern.-

Re itknown that '1, JOHN Bianca, of Boston, county ol'Suil'olk, State of Massachusetts, have invented an 'l'mprovement in Button-Hole Sew ing-Machines, of which the following description in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like-letters on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention is an improvement on the machine represented in United States Patent No. 210,516, granted to me April 26, 1881, to which reference may be had, and has for its object to simplify the construction of the stitching mechanism,whereby it is possible to.

make a firmer stitch with less strain upon the thread; also, to improve the buttonhole-cutting mechanism, whereby the throw of the cutter may be adjusted to compensate for wear of the cutting-bed and always insure a clean cut; also, to improve the construction of the spreading de\"ice,whereby the buttonhole may be betterheld in spread condition by the clamping mechanism also, to improvementsin meclr anism for controlling the needle-thread,whereby the latter is slackencd after the completion of the butlcnhole, and, as herein shown, the said thrcad-contro'lli ng mechanism is combined with and so as to be operated automatically by the mechanism which is employed to clamp the material in which the buttoitholc is being made; also, to improve the clamping mechanism which holds the material, and with the same there has been combined mechanism for automatically opening the clamp upon the completion of each button-hole.

The especial features in which my invention consists will be pointed out in the claims at the end of this specification.

Figure 1 is a side elevation, partially broken out, of a button-hole sewing-machine embodying my invention; Fig. 2, an under side view of the casing containing the feeding mechaa ism; Fig. 3, a top view of the mechanism represented in Fig. 2; Fig. 4, a section of Fig. 3 in the dotted line a: :0,- Fig. 5, a sectional detail and partial plan of a part of the bed-plate to show some of the devices which enter into the mechanism which controls the automatic starting and stopping of the stitching mechanism; Fig. 3, a section of Fig. 5 in the dotted line a Figs. 7 and 8, sections of Fig. 6 on the dotted lines :v" and (v :0 Fig. 9, a

'I'OZQ forming part of Letters Patent No. 349,359, dated September 21, 1886.

Serial No. 132,020. (ModelJ section of Fig. 5 on the dotted line Fig. 10, a section of Fig. 9 on the dotted line a a Fig. 11, a partial elevation of the left side of the machine to illustrate part of the thread slacking mechanism and of the means employed to operate the devices (not shown) which clamp and nnclamp the material being stitched; Fig. 11, a detail to be referred to. Fig. 11 is a detail plan view of part of the devices shown in Fig. 11 for automatically unclamping the material when a button hole is completed; Fig. 12, a detail showing part of the movable frame with the bed-plate and parts connected therewith to aid in start ing and stopping the stitching mechanism; Fig. 13, asection of Fig. 2 on the dotted line or m", Fig. 12; Fig. 14, a broken partial plan of the bed-plate, showing one-half of tle clamp which holds the material and part of the de vices to operate the same. Fig. 111a section of the rear end of finger 22 and under clamping member below it in the line pg of Fig. 14; Fig. 15, a section of Fig. 1st in the line m (UT, the clamping mechanism having been fully restored; Fig. 16, an elevation of the stitchingrace for the under needle and the looper, and means to operate the said parts in the proper time as the race is partially rotated in one or the other direction, carrying with it the under needle and looper; Fig. 17, a view of Fig. 16, looking at it in the direction of the arrow 17'; Fig. 1.8, a view of Fig. 16, looking at it in the direction of the arrow 18 Fig. 1S,a rear elevation of the race and throat plate; Fig. 19 atop view of Fig. 16; Fig. 20, a detail of parts of Fig. 16; Fig. 21, a detail of devices for aetu ating the devices shown in Fig. 16; Fig. 22, a section of Fig. 21 on the line a a; Fig. 23, a broken detail and partial side elevation of the button-holecutting mechanism. Fig. 23 is a detail plan view of the spreader; Fig. 21-, a section of Fig. 23 in the dotted line :0" 0:",- Figs. 25 and 26, sections on the line 3 of Fig. 22, the dotted line 3/ on the latter figure showing line of section for Fig. 21; Fig. 27, an edge elevation of the clutch mechanism; Fig. 28, a cross-section of the same, and Fig. 29 a section of the clutch mechanism in the line m :r, Fig. 28.

In the machine herein described the movable overhanging frame a, the bedplate a, provided with the groove and fixed stud or pin j, the casing a", the main shaft a, its cam I), the strap 0, 11eedle-bar lever 0', block 0, nee die-bar b, needle (I, the spring-arm 20 its adjusting-screw w, the sectors 6 0 the rod 0* to connect them, the partial gears (Z and actuated by them, the disk f, the link f its attached eccentric f, pins f and f, the connecting-link f", the lever g, cam-disk j, provided with the grooves 6, 4, and 7, rock-shaft Z, its lower arm, P, its upper arm, Z, and roller-studs Z" Z, the under members, m, of the clamp and their serrated parts at are substantially the same as in my said patent, wherein the same parts are designated by like letters.

It may be here stated that the general operation of my machine herein shown is the same as in the machine covered by my patent hereinbefore referred to, in that the material is held by a stationary clamp, and the stitch forming and cutting mechanisms are carried by a traveling frame, so that the button-hole is first cut in the material, the stitch-forming devices move along one side of the button -hole to work the same, then with a partial rotative movement around .the eye, and finally back along the second side of the button-hole, to complete thesame. The stitclrformiug meehanism is at rest while the button-hole is being cut, and is automatically brought into operation when the traveling frame has retreated far enough to get the cutter out of the way of the needles, and when the button-hole is completed the operation of the stitch forming mechanism is automatically suspended. The longitudinal or traveling movements of the frame a, carrying the stitch-forming mechanism, are imparted to said frame from the groove 6 of the cam-wheel j, rotating 011 a hub attached to the stationary frame and acting on the stud j", attached to the traveling fram e, and the slight lateral movements of the said traveling frame are effected by the rock-shaft I, having arms Z and Z, engaging said cam and frame, respectively, all as in my patent aforesaid.

The needle-bar b in this instance has but one needle, (marked (1,) it having an eye and be ing supplied with thread (1 from a suitable spool, S, the said thread being passed under the friction-plate (1", made adjustable as to its pressure by the nut 11, and thence under the slack-thread controller (1. The thread, after leaving the controller d, is passed through a guide-eye in a Vertical rod, (1 and then through an eye in a spring-held lever, d an eye, (1, made in the upper end of the needle-bar, and the three eyes d" d" (1, attached to the needlebar.

lhe needle (I at each descent is caused to penetrate the material at alittledistance back from its edge, and when the needle arrives at the eye of the button-hole, the frame a, besides moving longitudinally, is movedlaterally to cause the needle-bar and all the stitch-forming parts, to be described, both above and below the throat-plate to be partiallyrotated to carry the stitch around the said eye, the stitching mechanism being so operated by means of the sector e e and gears d and g, the said sectors deriving their movement from the camgroove 4 in the cam-wheelj, all as in my patent above referred to. The width of the stitching from the edge of the button-hole backward is con'- trolled by the screw 10, passing through the lower end of the needle bar and abutting against the spring-needle carrying-arm w, as in my former patent.

The overhanging movable frame a is moved both longitudinally and laterally, as in the patent referred to. The partial gear 9 has a depending bracket, 101, which receives and supports a horizontal stud, A, on which is pivoted the actuating-lever A, which imparts motion to the looper 2, (see Figs. 1. and 18,) and under needle,3, through suitable connecting devices, to be described. The lever A is shown as an elbow-lever, the lower arm of which is made ball-shaped (see Figs. 1 and 21) to be engaged by the lever 9, common to the said patent.

The lever g, joined at its rear end with the connecting-rod f, extended upward through the center of the casing a and'cam-wheel 3, has at its upper end a strap to embrace the eccentric projection f, (see Figs. 21, 22, 25, and 26,) forming part of the linkf. Thelink f has at one side of it, near one end, a pin,f", which enters loosely a hole in the disk f, (see Fig. 26,) and the eccentric projection f is provided with a pin, f on which is placed a roll-- er, f, which latter enters a cam-groove, 46, (see Fig. 25,) in the stationary cam 45, (see Fig. 22,) secured by screw 17 in the bracket 43, rigidly attached to and movable with the frame a.

The lever A hasa pin or roller-stud, A which enters a cam-slot, A, in the looperlever arm A, attached rigidly by screw A (see Fig. 16) to the looper-lever A having its fulcrum on the screw A inserted in the raceway-block A having its stem A (see Fig. 1) rigidly fastened into the sleeve A, fitted into the frame-work, the said sleeve at its lower end having fastened to it the partial gear 9 The looper-leverA (see Fig. 16) has mounted upon it loosely the looper-carrier A, the connection being by the screw A, (fully shown in Fig. 20,) the said carrierhaving at one side of it, at its outer end, preferably, a roller, 4, which, as the looper-lever A is vibrated, bears against the cam-surface 5 (see Figs. 19 and 2].) near the upper end of the lever A. The roller 4 is maintained in contact with the said camsurface 5 by one or more springs, two being herein shown, (marked t and t, see Fig. 19,) the said cam-surface and spring or sprin'gs serving to impart proper lateral movements to the looper,as will be hereinafter described, for the formation of the stitch.

The looper 2, (see Figs. 1 and 16,) connected with the carrier A by screw 10, has a point, 12, and a heel, 18, and at the rear of the said heel the said looper is bent at 14 to constitute IIO a throat, (see dotted lines, Fig. 19,) through which the under needle works, the heel 13 projecting into or toward the center of said throat, so as to spread the loop of the upper thread and leave ashouldcr, behind which the under needle may ascend to enter the said loop.

The under needle raceway block A (see Fig. 16) is grooved circularly for the reception 01' the uiuler-needlc block or carrier B, in which the under needle, Ii, is held by suitable screws, 8 9. The face of the raceway-block A is upwardlyand bat-kwardly inclined (see Fig. 18) with relation to the center line of the stem A, in order that the. under needle, 53, may pass diagonally upward and across the path ol' the vertieallyanovable eye-pointed needle d, and at the same time place itself in such relation to the said needle d and the loopcr 2, that the latter may pass into the space left between the upper and under needles near the eye of the former and the shank of the latter, as will be described. The raceway block A is cut through at its rear side (see Fig. 18) to receive the sleeve 1 (see Fif". 19) ot' the connectinglink B the latter being joined with the block or carrier 1. by means of the serew-pin B", the rear end of the said link being joined to the lever A bythc screw 13'. The upper end. 15, ot' the :raeevmy-liloek A is provided with a vertical. groove. 16, (see Fig. 1S,) to receive the dovetailed shank 17 of the throat-plate C, the said throatplate being-thus supported on the said block.

The depending portion 'ldl of what is called the partial gear (see Fig. 1) is provided with a thrcadguide, 1.8 1.9, and a suitable tension device, 20, to act upon the under thread. (Not shown.)

The upper serrated members, in, see Fig. 1,) of the cloth or material holding clamps are pivoted at 21 (see Fig. l t") on the fingers 22, in turn pivoted at 2.; (see Fig. 1) upon cars 24, rigidly secured to the lower members, at. The said lingers being normally kept elevated by springs 25, (see detail Fig. 14 wherein the said linger, spring. and member in. areshown in lt'ingitudinalsection. Eachlinger22(seeFigs. 'l, 14, and 17 is provided with an L-shaped link, 24;, pivoted to it by a screw, 27, and extended through a slotin the lowerelainp member, m, and below the latter the shoulders of the links are engaged by springs 28 (see Figs. H: and 1,5) of the arms 2?) ota rock-shaft, 3t), journaled in bearings (see Fig 1.) attached to the under side of the bed-plate a.

The arms 29 of the roekshaft :30 are normally held up to relieve the fingers 22 from strain of the springs 2s, by a spring, 31, (see Fig. 11;) and the outer tree end of one of the said arms 2i) is acted upon by the cam 32 of the cam-lever 3:3. pivoted at St on the bedplate a. the saidlever havingat one side a pin, 35, against which acts a. spring, 36, that nor mally turns the lever forward, as in dotted lines, Fig. l 1. (See also Fig. 14-.)

In Fig. 11. the handle 35; is shown in full lines as de n'essed or turned backward, its

cam :32 then acting upon the arm 25) to cause the springs 28 to pull down upon the con necting links 26 and loree the iinger. 2; and their clampingsurlaccs m in against the material, to hold it to be cut and stitched. The eanrlever 3-; is held locked in this position by a trigger-lever, D, (see Fi 11.1,) pivoted at D on a stud rising from the bedplate, the front end of the said lever being aetedupon by the spring-latch 3?. (Shown in dotted lines, Fig. 11, and in l'ull lines in the detail, Figs. 11. and 14 The spring-latch I)? has at its lower end a small projection, .102, adapted to catch under the trout end of lever D when in the position shown in l'ull lines in Fig. 11. so as to lift the said end of said lever when the lever :33 is turned from the position shown in tull lines in Fig. ll to the position indicated by dotted lines in said figure, tor a purpose which will be explained further on. The inner end of the lever D has pivoted upon it a trigger, 1), provided with aslot to receive apin, as, which is made adjustable therein and has depending from it a foot, 39. The pin 38 is acted upon by a lever, l-l, having projecting from one side 01' it an incline, it), the said lever having its fulcrum at -12 on the bracket 4.; of the movable frameu. (See Figs. 11 and .1 l..) The pointed short arm of the trigger D rests upon a ledge made at one end of the triggcerest 1), attached by a screw to the bed-plate. (See Fi l l.) In Fig. '11. the parts are in the position they will occupy when the button-hole slit has been worked along one side and about the eye, the movable frame being about ready to be started forward to enable the last side of the huttoirhole to be stitched.

\Vhen the frame (1 was moved backward, or in the direction of the arrow 18, (Fig.1 1,) the lower side ol' the incline to struck the pin 38 and the latter lifted the incline and the le ver 4-1, carrying it, and this without at all disturbing the trigger; but frame (1 starts for ward or opposite the arrow 18, the Forward or lower end 01' the incline it) strikes under the pin 38, and by the time that the said pin reaches the highest part of the said incline, the end ol' the button-hole having been reached, the pin :38 is sulliciently lifted to cause the pointed end of the trigger D to be turned l'rom above the ledge l)", thus permitting the rear cnd ot' the trigger-lever l) to descend through the action 01' the springs 28, before described. The pin 38 is adjusted in the slot of the trigger 1) according to the length 01' the button-hole. As the trigger leaves the trigger-rest and the front end of the lever i) as cends, it releases the latch 37 and permits the spring 36, acting upon the pin $3.) of the said lever, to start the said lever, and the springs to complete the turning movement thereofinto the dotted-line position, Fig. i 1, in which position the upper members of the clamp will be raised. Thus it will be understood that the unclamping ol' the material is acconr plished automatically. As the material is unclamped to be removed the needle-thread must be slackened. This is accomplished automatically, as follows: The rear end of the trigger-lever D is joined by link E with the threadslackening lever d, pivoted at E on a bracket, E", having an attached spring, E, which acts normally to keep the front end of lever d elevated above the needle-thread between the tension device (1 and the guide d Then the rear end of the lever D is released through the movement of the trigger, as stated, the lever 33, as before described, is started forward, and the latch 37, as it passes from under the lever D, lifts its front end, draws down its rear end, and by the link E causes the thread-slackener d to descend upon and pull the necessary amount of slack thread from the tension device (1*, and as the latch 37 passes from the front end of the said leverD the spring E" is permitted to become effective to lift the thread-slackening lever and the rear end of lever D, thus leaving the slack thread free to be drawn out through the eye of the needle for the removal of the work.

The cam-wheel j has a projecting circular rim, 50, which is embraced by the jaws 51 of a dog, 49, herein shown as a curved bar, in order to pass the center of the cam-wheel. The end of the dog, which is provided with the jaws 51, is acted upon by a spring, 52, which throws that end of the dog forward on the rim whenever the other end of the said dogis acted upon by the lower arm, 53, of a three-armed lever, F, having its fulcrum on a stationary sleeve, t, (see Fig. 5,) projecting from the movable frame a. The upper arm, 54, of the lever F is moved in one direction by the eccentric 55, (see dotted lines, Fig. 1,) attached to the belt-pulley, and in the opposite direction through the spring 52, the belt-pulley be ing loose on shaft a \Vhen the cam-wheel is to be turned forward, or in the direction of the arrow thereon, Fig. 3, the arm 53 of thelever F will be thrown by the eccentric 55 against the end of the dog 49, causing it to turn, soas first to bite the rim 50, and then to carry the cam wheel with it, the extent of movement of the cam-wheel depending upon the extent of the movement of the arm 54 of the lever F toward the eccentric 55, such extent of movement being regulated by the feed-regulating device 56, (shown as a screw, made adjustable in one ofthe arms of the said lever F.)

The hub of the cam-wheelj (see Figs. 3 and 23) has a cam-projection, 57, substantially the same as the earn :0 in the patent referred to. The cam 57 acts upon a toe-piece, 58, adjustably secured in a groove in the rear end of the cutter-lever G, having its fulcrum at G, and provided at its outer end witha cutter, G", of usual construction, the latter being adapted to descend upon the material resting upon the cutter-block G attached to a projecting portion, G*, of the casing a",secured to the movable frame a.

To compensate for, wear of the cutting-block .0 being shown in dotted lines.

G and insure a clean cut, the beveled end of the toe-piece 58 (see Fig. 23) is acted upon by an incline of a sliding bar, 59, having anattached screw-threaded rod, 60, provided with a thumb-nut, 61, by which to actuate the said slide and regulate the movement of the cutting-lever and makeits pressure on the block G3 more or less. The toe 58 of. the cutter-lever G is kept in contact with the cam-projection 57 by means of the spring G acted upon at its free end by the screw G in the frame a.

The under members, m,of the clamp, pivoted each as at 62, (see Fig. 14,) are drawn together at their inner ends by a spring, 63, attached to pins 64 of the said members. Each member m, near its inner end, at its under side, is

provided with a roller-stud, 65, and the studs by the spring 63 are held against the outer sides of the spreader a, (see Figs. 21, 22, 23, and 23,)pivoted at n on the casing a". WVhen the material is first clamped and the movable frame a is in its forward position the studs 65 rest against the sides of the spreader a, back of the inclines or shoulders n where the said spreader is narrowest, and as soon as the material has been clamped and cut, the inclines n", in the backward movement of the frame a, act upon and separate the roller-studs, thus separating the members m, spreading the button-hole slit just prior to the penetration of the material by the needle d for the formation of the first stitch taken in the button-hole, the said roller-studs remaining in contact with the wide part of the spreader until the buttonhole has been stitched all around, the wide part of the spreader being a little longer than the longest button'hole to be stitched.

In the stitching of a button-hole, when the needle arrives at the eye the lateral movement of the frame a is commenced by the camgroove 7 and arms 1* and Z, as in my said Patent No. 240,546, and if the spreader-n were rigidly fixed to the movable frame it is obvious that the spreader, acting upon the rollerstuds, would throw the clamp to one side, which would make it impossible to stitch a round or oval eye; and to obviate this difficulty and prevent the spreader from counteracting the efl'ect desired to accomplish by the cam-groove 7, which is shaped to give the proper vibrations for the stitching of the eye, the said spreader has been pivoted so as to turn upon its pivot as the frame a is vibrated.

To automatically stop the feed movement or the throw of the dog 49 while the operator is placing the material in the clamp to be cut, the bed-plate is provided with a f'eedarresting bar, 0, (see Fig. 11,) placed in a groove at its under side, and held therein by the heads of two screws, 0", one at each side of the bar, near its ends, that one of the screws marked This bar isprovided with an adjustable stop,.-0, having a depending lug, which is in the line of movement of the dog 49 as it is vibrated by the le-' ver F. When the frame a is being moved forward to place the clamp in position to supply it with the material to be stitched, the lever 33 is forward, as in dotted lines, Fig. 11, and when in such position the front wall of the recess 66 in the cam 32 is sufiicienfly far rearward to engage at the proper moment the front end of the feed-arresting bar 0, which is in line with the said wall or the thick part of the cam, said bar being adapted to have a limited longitudinal or sliding movement in a slot in the stationary bed-plate (1.. As the frame a travels forward the dog 49 in its vibrations strikes the projection e on the bar 0, thus gradually carrying the said bar forward until its front end comes in contact with the rear wall of the recess (56 in the cam 32, when the said projection will prevent the retraction of the dog 4.) by the spring 52, thereby arresting the vibrations of said dog and the rotation of the cam-wheelj, and thus stopping the forward movements of the frame a, which carries the stitch-forming and cutting mechanisms.

The turning of the lever 88 into its full-line position, Fig. 11, to clamp the material preparatory to cutting the same removes the thick part of the cam 32 from the end of the feed-.

arresting bar, and the latter, being released, permits the dog li) to be again moved to coinmcnce the rotation of the cam j and the for ward movement of the frame a, the front end of the feed-arresting bar then freely entering the recess or chamber (36 in the lower end of the lever 33, so that the said bar is far enough forward to permit the dog 49 to be retracted by its sprin 52, and thus the movements of the said dog and of ihe parts operated thereby are resumed.

The operations of the stitch-forming devices are'suspcndcd when the button-hole is being cut, and shortly before and afterward, during a partof the time when the cutter is moving forward to the cutting position and is retreating therefrom, as in the machine shown bymy prior patent, and in order to stop or start the said Hllilll'i Ol'llllllg devices automatically the bed-plate is provided with a controlling-bar, (see Figs. 1, 5, (3, and 12,) having at its under side, near its rear end, a recess to receive loosely a washer, 1), (see Fig. 8.) which latter rests upon the bed-plate and receives through it a bolt, pt. upon which, above the bed-plate and conlrolling'bar, is placed a nut, p, the construction and combination being such as to permit the front end of the controlling-bar to vibrate horizontally about the said bolt as a fulcrum and yet restrain it from longitudinal movement without first loosening the said nut, the said bar being moved from time to time to alter the length of the button-hole. trolling-harp is grooved at top along its inner edge (see Fig. '7) to receive an adjustable slidebar, $7, (see Figs. 5, (3, and 12,) attached thereto by a screw, (39, the front end of the said slideba r being beveled or inclined at 103 to permit the toe of arm 70, (see Fig. 6,) con nectcd with the roekshaft 71., to pass readily from the lower plane of the controlling-barp to the top of the slide-bar ($7 at a higher plane,

This con the top of the said slide-bar 67 being in the same plane as the high part or edge (38 of the controlling-bar p, so that the said toe may ride upon the slide-bar while the frame a is being moved backward and while the first half or side of the button-hole slit is being stitched.

The frame a. is vibrated or moved laterally by means of the cam. j, the rock-shaft Z, and its arms, as in the machine shown by my former patent, as the needle reaches the eye of he slit, and the outer end of the controllingbar is swung laterally by a spring, 2, which rests against its outer side, the said spring being herein shown as composed of wire and held by a screw, 73. (See Fig. 5.) The side of the controlling-bar next the movable frame (I, when the first half of the button-hole is being stitched, rests against and is held out by means of a vibrator, r, made as a slide-bar, (see Figs; 12 and 13,) the said vibrator being guided in the movable frame and having a projecting arm, r", which rests against the rod which connects the upper and lower scetors, c Asthe frame commences to vibrate to enable the needle (Z to penetrate the material about the eye, the rod. 6 is carried away from the arm '70, and the controllingbar, acted upon by the spring 72, is made to move the slider, so that it follows the rod 0 and gradually brings the high part (58 or outer portion of the controllingbar under the toe of the arm 70, where it rests while the other half of the button-hole is being stitched, the said too dropping therefrom upon the lower plane of the said controlling-bar as the last half of the button-hole finished. The rock-shaft T1 is provided with a second arm, 7 1-, shown in Figs. and .l.

The upper end of arm it is provided with a dog, T5, which projects therefrom sufficiently to enter the groove'TT (see Figs. 27, 2S, and 29) in the clutch-wheel M, secured to the main shaft a" by the set-screw T8, whenever the toe of the arm 70 is on the lower plane of the controllingbarp, the dog then acting against the inclined portion '79 (see Fig. 27) of the friction-plate M, placed in a notch or recess at the side of and rotating with the clutch, causing the said plate to be moved laterally for a sufficient distance to disengage the corner from the spring 81, (see Figs. 28 and 29,) rigidly attached to the beltwheel. N by a bolt, 82, the belt-wheel being loose on the main shaft a. The disengagement of the frictionplate M from the bcltwvheel permits the latter to run loose. The end 80 of the frictionplate is disengaged from the spring Si, while the end of the dog 75 acts upon the inclined portion 79 of the friction-plate, and as soon as the dog reaches the straight portion of the said plate beyond the incline, the said plate is borne against the adjustable screw or stop 83 with suflieient'force to serve the purpose of a brake or stop, thus causing the rotation of the clutch-wheel and shaft a to cease, and thereby stopping the operation of the stitchforming mechanism receiving its movements from said shaft, as in my former machine. When released from the dog 75, the frictionplate M springs back to its first position by its own resilience, one end of said plate being rigidly held in a groove or recess in the clutchwheel. When the toe of the arm is on the slide-bar 67, or the higher level of the controlling-bar, the end of the dog will be out of the range of the friction-plate, and the beltwheel will drive the shaft 0.. The toe of arm 70 is held down against the controlling-bar by the spring 84, (see Figs. 1 and 5,) attached to a pin, 85, fastened to the said arm and to the frame a.

To provide for stopping and starting the stitch-forming mechanism when the toe of the arm 70 is on the high level of the controllingbar, as is sometimes necessary, the dog 75 is slotted (see Figs. 9 and 10) to receive an eccentric pin or stud, 76, on the inner-end of a small shaft, 76, mounted in the arm 74 and provided with thumb-projections by which it maybe turned. By means of the said shaft and its eccentric-pin working in the slot in the dog 75, the latter may be moved forward, so that its end will enter the groove 77 of the clutch-wheel M to be in proper position to disengage the latter from the belt-wheel N, or the said dog maybe moved backward, so as to be disengaged from the said clutch-wh eel, thereby permitting the latter to engage and rotate the belt-wheel.

The belt-wheel N is loose on shaft a", and

has attached to one side of it the eccentric 55,

(see Figs. 27 and 28,) that actuates the lever F, (see Figs. 1 and 5,) which moves the dog 49 to effect the feeding movement of the frame a. The belt-wheel may be rotated constantly and the frame a be kept in motion, except when the dog 49 is arrested, as described, by the arresting-bar 0.

\Vhen the frame a is in its forward position, to enable the material to be put into the clamp and be cut, the toe of the arm 70 rests upon the lower level of the controlling-bar, and the inner end of the dog 75 is in the groove 77, and acts against the plate M to keep it from engagement with the spring 81; but as soon as the toe of the arm 70 in the backward movement of the frame a meets the inclined front end of the slide-bar 67 the latter effects the movement of the arm 70, rock-shaft 71, and arm 74, and withdraws the dog 75 from contact with the friction-plate M, and enables the latter to engage the spring 81 and start the stitch-forming devices, keeping the same in regular motion until in the return forward movement of the frame a the toe of the arm 70 drops off from the end of the high plane 68 of the controlling-bar.

In. practical work the button-holes to be stitched differ in length, and the material employed is also of various kindsas, for instance, thick and thin cloth or lcatherand different users of the machine, according to the different work to be done, frequently desire to vary the length of the stitch in the direction of the length of the button-hole slit and between the commencement and comple. tion of a button-hole, the stitch being commonly made longer along the straight sides of the slit and shorter about the eye. .To accommodate for this variation automatically, the bed-plate has been provided with what is denominated a pattern-plate, 86, (see Figs. 1 and 5,) it having two different levels, the said plate being made longitudinally adjustable by a thumb-nut, S7, placed on the threaded end 88 of the pattern-plate, the said nut being placed between two stationary ears, 89 and 90, attached to the bed-plate. The lower end of the screw 56 during the movement of the frame a will, at the proper times, pass from the lower to the higher level or part of the said plate 86 and shorten the stitch, and vice versa, the time at which the said screw moves from one to the other level being determined by the adjustment of the plate 86 and the part of the button-hole at which it is desired to change the length of stitch.

The cloth or material having been placed between the clamps, and the latter depressed, the frame being in its forward position, the cutter-lever is operated to cut the button-hole slit. As the frame a commences to move backwardly, the button-hole slit is spread, as described,

and the high part of the cam 57 passes from under the toe-piece 58, and permits the spring G to elevate the cutter-lever. This done, the stitching mechanism is started, as has been stated, and the needle d penetrates the material at one side of the slit cut therein, and at that end of the said slit opposite the eye, and the feed movement is continued until the needle has penetrated the material completely along, first, one side of the slit, then about the eye, and along the opposite side of the slit, and, as the end of the button-hole is again reached,thestitch-formingdevices arestopped, as has been stated; but the feed is continued until stopped by the arresting-bar, leaving the frame a in its forward position, with the material unclamped and the thread slackened. The needle (I, having descended through the material resting upon the throat-plate O, as stated, is slightly retracted, to throw out aloop for the entrance of the point 12 of the looper 2, which enters the loop of needle-thread, and by the action of roll 4 on the cam surface 5 of the lever A is moved laterally, to carry the I Ice loop of needle-thread out to the lower edge of the button-hole slit, where the said looper dwells, while the under needle rises through the loop of needle-thread back of the heel 13, the under needle being thrust up through the said loop and through the button-hole slit and diagonally across the edge of the slit, and also across thepath of movement of the needle (I, the under needle reaching its high point just before the needle (I, in its next descent, crosses the curved part of the under needle, 3, between its two eyes, and the needle (1 during its further descent enters the loop of under thread carried by the under needle. The needle d descends through the loop of thread presented above the material by the under needle, andthrough the throat-plate, and a second loop of nccdle-threznl is entered by the looper, thelat tcr enter entering the said loop just after the curved needle commences its descent. The needle (I then rises, as before described, and the under needle continue its descent, and the needle (7 completes is ascent as the u nder needle, 3, completes its descent, thus drawing up the threads to set the stitch. and, owing to the tension on the upper thread being the strongest, the under thread. carried by the lllltiOY-llQOtiltE, 3, is drawn about and made to cover the edge of the button-hole slit, both above and below from that point of the material penetrated-by the needle 1].

i claim- 1. In a button -hole-stit-ching mechanism, the combination, with a throat-plate, ofa reciprocating needle-bar and its eye-pointed needle d, the. raceway-block A the needlecarrying block, its curved under needle, 3, a co-operating looper, and means for operating said needles and looper, substantially as set forth.

2. The throatplate, the raceway-block 1. inclined at one side, as described, the needleblock 3 and its attached ninlei'tln'ead-carrying needle, combined with the needle-bar, needle d, and means, substantially as described, to actuate the same,whcreby the under needle is made to cross the path of movement of the upper needle diagonally, substantially as de scribed.

S. The raceway-block A the reciprocating needle-bar I) and its eye-pointed needle, the needle -blocl; .3, and under thread carrier, combined with the looper-lever, the attached looper-lever cam, the looper-carrier, the looper, and the lever to operate the said cam, substantially as described.

4. The raceway-block A, needle-block B, underthread carrier 3, looper -lever, its at tached cam and lever A", to move the said cam and loopcnlevcr, and the cam-surface 5, combined with the looper and looper-carrier pivoted upon the looper-lever,and moved in one direction by the said cam-surface to cause the looper to carry the loop of thread taken from the needle (I to the edge of the button-hole slit, to operate substantially as described.

5. The raceway-block A needle-block B,attaehed under needle, looperdever, looper-lever cam, looper and looper-carrier pivoted upon the looper-levcr, the throat-plate, lever A, provided with stud to operate the looperlever cam, thelinl; to connect the lever A and the needle-block, the needle-bar, needle (7, gears (Z and and means, substantially as described, to partially rotate the needle-bar and the said race, to operate substantially as set forth.

(5. The bed-plate a, the movable frame a, means, substantially as described, to reciprocate and vibrate the same, the raceway-block A the needle-block 13,attached under needle,

looperlever, looper-lever cam, looper and loopencarrier pivoted upon the looper-lever, the throat-plate lever A, provided with stud to operate the looperlever cam, the link to connect the lever A and the needle-bloclgthe ncedle-bar, needle (I, gears d" and g and means, substantially as described, to pa *tially rotate the needle-bar and the said race, to on crate substantially as set forth.

7. In a buttoirholestitching machine, the throat-plate, ncedle'bar, needle (7, and means, substantially as described, to operate the neodle-bar, combined with thelooper ,cut to form a threat, 14, and provided with the point 12 and heel 1S, and with means to operate the said loopcr, whereby it is made to enter the loop ofneedlethread under the lhroatplate and carry the loop aside to the edge of the button-here slit for the entrance of the under needle, substantially as set forth.

8. The bed-plate, the movable frame, means, substantially as described, to reciprocate and vibrate the same, the raceway-block A block B, attached under needle, looper-lever, loopen lever cam, looper and looper-carrier pivoted upon the looper-lever, the throat-plate, lever A, provided with stud to operate the loopcrlever cam, the link to connect the lever A and I block, the needle-bar, needle (1, gears d" and g and means, substantially as described, to partially rotate the needle-bar and the said race, and with clamping mechanism, substantially as described, to clamp and hold the ma terial to be stitched.

9. In abutton-hole sewingniachine, the 00ll1- bination, with stitching mechanism to stitch the edge of a button-hole and a cam having a projection, 57, of a cutting-bed, a cutter, cut ter-lcvcr, and a toe, 58. attached to the cutter, and means, substantially as described, to adjust the said too.

10. Inabutton-holesewing-machine,astitchforming mechanism, the cutter-bed, the eutterlever, its attached cutter, and the adjustable toe, combined with a cam to act upon the said toe and vibrate the cutter-lever, adjustment of the said toe compensating for the wear of the bed, substantially as described.

ll. In a button-hole-stitching machine, the bed-plate, its attached clamp composed of lower members, in m, having surfaces m m lingers 22, provided with the plates in, links so, and springs 28, the rock-shaft having arms 29, combined with the canrlever 33, to operate the rock-shaft and close the clamp upon the material, substantially as described.

12. In a buttonhole-stitching machine, the bed-plate, its attached clamp composed of lower members in in, having surfaces m m fur gers 22, provided with the plates in, links 26, and springs 28, the rocloshaft having arms 29, combined with the cam-lever 33, to operate the rock-shaft and close the clamp upon the material, and with the movable frame and pivoted spreader to operate upon the studs 05 of the lower members, an, of the clamp, as and for the purposes set forth,

13. In a bntton-hole-stitching machine, the bed-plate, the cloth-clamping mechanism, the movable frame a, the stitching mechanism carried thereby, and the pivoted spreader, combined with means, substantially as described, to reciprocate and vibrate the said frame, as and for the purposes set forth.

14. The bed-plate, the cloth-clamping mechanism and the cam-lever to effect the closing of the said clamping mechanism upon thematerial to be stitched, the latch on the cam-lever, the trigger-lever, and the trigger to hold the trigger-lever and retain the cam-lever in position to keep the clamping mechanism closed, combined with the trigger-rest, movable frame, and lever having the inclined projection to release the trigger and trigger-lever at the completion of a button-hole and auto- .luatically effect the nnclamping of the material, substantially as described.

15. The clamping mechanism for the material to be stitched, the lever to hold the said mechanism closed, the latch 37 thereon, and the thread-slacking lever, combined with intermediate mechanism, substantially as described, to release the lever which holds the clamping mechanism as the button -hole is completed and to operate the thread'slacking lever to draw the needle-thread and produce slack therein, to permit the removal of the material from the open clamp, as set forth.

16. The arm 29, the cam-lever 33, mounted on the bed-plate and chambered or cut away at 66, and the feed-arresting bar provided with the projection 0 combined with the camwheel and the dog 49, and with means to operate the said dog until the same is stopped by the feedarresting bar, substantially as described.

17. The bed-plate, movable frame, the camwheel j, the dog 49, means, substantially as described, to operate the dog and rotate the said cam-wheel, and the feed-arresting bar provided with the project on 0 to be acted upon by the dog 49, combined with the cam-lever 33, shaped to stop the forward movement of the feed-arresting bar and the vibration of the dog 49 when the cam-lever is in one position, the cam-lever being cutaway, as described, to permit the feed-arresting bar to move forward, and permit the movement of the dog 49 when the said cam-lever is in its other position, substantially as set forth.

18. The bed-plate, the tension device, the clamping mechanism for the material to be stitched, the cam-lever 33 and its attached latch 37, and the thread-slackening lever d, combined with the lever D and connectinglink E, substantially as and for the purpose described.

19. The bed-plate, the cam-lever, its latch 37, the trigger-lever, the trigger, its adjustable pin 38 and foot 39, and the triggerrest, combined with the movableframe and its lever 41,provided with the inclined projection, to operate substantially as described.

20. The bed-plate, the controlling-bar 1), having portions at its upper side in two planes, and the slide-bar 67 therein, combined with the frame a, rock-shaft 71, its arms 70, provided with a toe to rest upon the controllingbar, and the arm 74, and the dog 75 in the arm 74, combined with the main shaft 0 clutchwheel, its friction-plate, the belt-pulley and its spring 81, and with a spring to keep the toe of the arm 70 upon the controller-bar, sub stantially as described. 7

21. The bed-plate, the controller bar, the

washer p, and bolt p and nut 11, combined with the slide 1', having the projection a", and with the movable frame a, rod or shaft E, and spring 72, to operate substantially as described. 22. The controller -bar, rock-shaft 71, its arm 7 0,provided with'the toe, the arm 74, the dog 75, and means to move it, substantially as described, combined with the movable frame a, main shaft a its attached clutch-wheel, friction-plate, and loose belt-pulley, substantially as described.

23. The bed-plate, movable frame a, shaft a", loose belt-pulley and its attached eccentric,

the cam-wheel, dog 49, and means, substantially as described, to operate the latter, and the three armed lever F, moved by the said eccentric, and provided with the adjusting de vice 56, combined with the pattern-cam having different parts of its upper surface atdifferent levels, the lever F, moving the dog 49 and actuating the cam-wheel, substantially as described.

24. The bed-plate, movable frame, lever A,- lever g, eccentric liukf, shaft a disk f, and the link f attached thereto and provided with an eccentric, and pins f and f combined with the stationary cam 45, in which is re ceived a roller-stud, f on the pin f projecting from one side of the said slotted link, all to operate substantially as described.

25. In a button hole sewingmachine, the combination, with the stationary frame and the controlling-bar p thereon, of the traveling frame a, carrying the stitch-forming mechan ism, the arms 70 and 74, the dog 75, the shaft a", the clutch-wheel M,fast thereon, the frictionplate M, provided with the incline, the beltwheel N,loose on the said shaft, and the spring 81, attached to the belt-wheel and adapted to be engaged by. the said friction-plate,whereby, when a button-hole is completed, the clutch will be automatically uncoupled from the beltwheel and the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism thus suspended, substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JOHN REEOE.

Witnesses:

G. W. GREGORY, V. H. SIGSTON. 

